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Peak Mountain 3

Icarus

FA Amy Jordan, Aaron Miller
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A fantastic route up the clean face just left of Astro Devil. Named after the Greek mythological character who was warned by his father not to fly too close to the sun or his wings of wax would melt. This tale applies to the great second pitch, which is the crux of the route.The first pitch is awkward 5.11c where, like classic Cave routes at Diablo, none of the holds are down-pulls. 3rd bolt has fixed chain draw. After a series of roofs lower down you come out onto a less steep face.  Here, the shiny new bolts trending right heading to the big ledge is Astro Devil. Icarus stays left up a shallow dihedral to the first belay.  The second pitch goes directly up from the belay. Thin face moves lead to several hard moves to pull over a lip (5.11+/5.12-). Pull through one more overlap to the chains.

Location

This route starts at the same awkward first pitch as Astro Devil, at the right side of the Solar Cave. Climb up ten bolts where the bolt line splits, take the left track up through the fun dihedrals to a good stance. Climb the second pitch from here.

Protection

1st pitch, about 14 bolts. 2nd pitch about 11 bolts. Both anchors bolted with chain and biners.