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The direct version of The Dream is significantly harder. 12- might be a little stiff, but maybe my beta was bad. Instead of cheating your way through the roof by starting on the left and traversing, attack the roof head on. What looks like a burly reach is actually a technical endeavor. Use a combination of knee bars, powerful underclings (find the crimps!), bicycles, and brawn to make your way to the relatively easy moves of The Dream.
Location
Same roof as The Dream, only get right under it and go.
Protection
TR
Routes in Jungle Cliffs
- 18The Dream Direct5.12-Tr