Raven Song

This route takes a direct line from the start of Midnight Special straight to the top of the cliff. Similar climbing to Suicide Wall with interesting moves and decent gear, but at an easier grade.

Start as for Midnight Special, heading up to the hollow flakes and block (good pro in suspect rock, first crux), then straight up to a lone ponderosa pine on a 12" deep ledge. Continue up the clean rock directly above the tree following the line of least resistance, passing a tricky move at a long reach to a short flake (second crux).

Fun climbing leads to the top of the steeper rock at a pine tree growing downwards along the face (possible finish here by traversing right 15-20' to reach the double bolts atop Suicide Wall). For the Direct Finish, step over the pine to a short dike and easy slabs (5.3R) heading for the final overlaps. Pull through just left of a clump of birch trees at a V shaped notch (5.8ish?) or step left then up to the anchor tree atop the route (5.5).

Start as for Midnight Special, directly above the log hangout area just left of the prominent blocky corner of Orthanc. Rap off the Suicide Wall anchors with one 60 meter rope, or from atop the Direct Finish rap off of a 8" diameter pine tree with two 60M ropes.

Standard rack to 2 1/2".