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Peak Mountain 3

Erockticka

FA Matt Perkins
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Erockticka is a nice 5 pitch route that goes up the main wall just right of The Other Side of the Tracks. I feel that this route is just as good, if not more enjoyable than Other Side of the Tracks.

P1: 510a 45m Start with a DIRTY boulder move onto a slab. (if you can do this, you can do the route) Follow the bolts up to a bush, Traverse Right (crux, 3 bolts) to the base of a 5.9 crack. Go up, exit RFC below bush on good feet to anchor on left. Mind Rope Drag.

P2: 5.9 40m Go Left up to the ramp or pod. Gear may require gardening. Two bolts above the pod. Traverse back right 30' past hollow undercling to a bolt. Up and right to Anchor.

P3 5.10a 35m Begin right side of anchor. Go up and trend left past two bolts. Enter into RFC, Gear is there but spaced out. Bolt will let you enter a left trending crack system for about 35' (5.8+), At the top of crack is a bolt, exit right past another bolt to the anchor.

P4 5.7 40m.  Gear is there. Start up left following small seams aiming for the tree. At dirty black pod, slowly start changing course back to right. Go up and over a LFC to gain the rib. Which is directly above belay. Avoid the dirty gully which is left of the rib you want to climb.

P5 5.8+ 35m Traverse right and step up to a bolt about 10' left and down from rap station.  Pass the double rap bolts to dirty ledges. Three final bolts lead you to the top. After the third bolt, don't be surprised with the increase of moss in the last 15' (1 placement) when the angle decreases.

Decent: Rap route: 70m rope with stretch will work, but advise  80m or double ropes   Separate Rap Line NOT ADVISED

Location

50 feet right of the Other Side of the Tracks. The Spring is in between the two routes.

Protection

Standard Rack to 3" Doubles to 1"

Long Runners and Draws

Minimum 70m Rope, Double ropes suggested. I rapped the route and was able to make due with a 70m WITH rope stretch.  TIE KNOTS

Separate Rap Route, NOT ADVISED Only hangers, no rap rings. TAT old and unsafe.