Black Magic Woman

A fantastic climb with perfect rock, a short approach, and awesome moves. Start at the base of the arete and climb past a couple bolts. The business starts after the second bolt. Get your feet up high, grab the big undercling/sidepull jug with your left hand and pinch an undercling a couple inches above that with your right hand. Hold it all tight while reaching up to a lousy pinch on the arete with your left hand. Re-adjust your feet and lunge for the jug out to the right. Footwork is key. Continue past a couple more bolts to the top, turning back onto the left side of the arete to use Black Rose's chains. The top of the climb is slightly runout but easy at 5.7ish.

This route goes up the south-facing arete of Black Rose. It starts where A Rose is a Rose starts and continues up the right side of the arete. The bolts are easily visible.

5 bolts to Black Rose's chains. A finger-sized cam or nut if you want to protect the slight runout to the top.