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Peak Mountain 3

East Rabbit Ear

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Description

This is a true Choss Master classic. This route climbs the crack on the east side of the east ear - the true summit verified with a level. The rock quality is horrific, but at least the gear is acceptable. Complete a short mantel, and climb a semi-overhanging section through a red rock band which has the worst rock quality. Improving rock quality then leads to a ledge where a 4th Class scramble then leads to the summit.

I blew a large rock and fell, so any edge/rock/foot/hand cannot be trusted.

A single 50m rope rappel from a good block on the summit gets you back to the ground.

Location

It ascends the East Ear.

Protection

A double rack #0.3-3 and a single #4 (new BD). Although I don't use them often, I found tri-cams exceptionally helpful on this route due to the poor rock quality.


Routes in Rabbit Ears Peak


  1. 2
    East Rabbit Ear
    5.7
    Trad