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MapDescription
Right when you get to the top of the approach trail, this is the offwidth that splits up the prominent leaning pillar. Starts with a hand to wide-hand crack then a rightward leaning offwidth crack to a roof. Pull through the roof and more offwidth climbing leads to the anchor. Really fun route.
(Per Max Schon's 2002 description for Unnamed 5.10/11(?) - "This is the wide short crack when you get to the base of the cliff. I've never done it, but everyone I know who has, told me it's harder then it looks.Looks like you can get your knees in the crack, but apparently they just don't quite fit. Name? Probably 5.10+"
Protection
#3 - #4.5 or new #5 Camalots.
Routes in Broken Tooth
- 12The Incisor5.11aTrad