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Peak Mountain 3

Delusions of Grandeur

FA Pat Maloney and Ted Coletti
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This 60ft finger crack route has good jams and lockoffs with a consistent but slight pumpy steepness. The funky protection is reminiscent of other BCC classic cracks like Gordon's Hangover, nuts are key. The line angles slightly right and eases up just below a small bush on a ledge about 60ft up. This allows you to traverse left about 10ft around the corner to the Pat's Arete anchors. A large moss pile obscured key fingers needed in the middle which may need excavating. Also, the tat at the time I climbed it was garbage and I replaced it with a small piece of cord. Beware of some loose rock.

Location

The Mule Hollow Descent Gully can be approached by branching off from the switchback trail to a non-obvious trail to the left which (at the time) crossed a large rotting piece of deadfall to place you below a very loose, but short talus slope about 100ft long. At the top of this short slope, you can see the tat anchors of Pat's Arete. From the top of the descent gully, enter the gully on the right about 15ft and immediately on your left is Delusions of Grandeur. A small willow sits above the start where the belayer will stand.

Protection

Old bashies and fixed stopper anchor way left, this route would do well with bolts above the climb to reduce awkwardness of lowering and allow for a clean rappel.