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Peak Mountain 3

Ecstasy of Gold

FA Jake Dickerson (June 2021)
CREATED May 2023
UPDATED May 2023

Description

Amazing route, but the bottom boulder problem of this route is pretty damn desperate!

Start on a right hand mono and left hand crimp and move up into the undercling and above on absolutely minuscule crimps and foot holds to a super hard stab to a precise 2 finger pocket and finally better holds to clip the third bolt (V6?)

After a shake, trend left and up on pumpy sinker pockets (11+) on bullet stone. Rest when you can because the route ends with a massive deadpoint to an edge right below the chains. If you don't have the last move dialed you can easily blow it at the top :)

Stick clip the first bolt

Name comes from the classic song from "The Good, Bad, and the Ugly"

youtube.com/watch?v=PYI09PM…

Location

Just right of last years chili queen. Use the rock stack to reach the start holds.

Protection

6 bolts to lowering carabiners


1000 km
1000 mi