One Step Beyond

Stem the start and make a couple moves to get into the grungy chimney. Awkward hands with places to cam your feet. Protect with #5 or #6 Camalot or stick clip a bolt about 10 feet up on the face to the right of a narrow, left-leaning chimney. If you don't have big gear, the start into the chimney is hard to protect without clipping the bolt and would lead to a bad landing if you slip or fall out before placing the first piece. However, the bolt is tough to clean and using it worsens rope drag. Grovel up and left through the crux as the chimney tries to spit you out - skinny people may find this easier than husky types. It is tough to place and clip gear here. Wise gear racking on your harness will help. After a small shelf, the climb eases considerably, but watch for rope drag. Belay from a tree and gear.After doing this a few times, think about protecting the leader (or even follower considering rope stretch) from hitting the sharp finback rock at the base of the climb. A spot for the leader, backpack over the rock, taking out all slack, etc. will make this safer and less intimidating when moving into the crack.

This is on the right side of the Overlook Crag under a small roof to the right of a bigger roof. Walk off and descend to the right of the crag with a short section of scrambling.

Either an alpine draw for bolt or #5 or #6 Camalot first piece, then small cams up to #0.75. PG-13 if you don't have big gear for the first piece or choose not to clip the bolt. A TR will have a big swing and rope drag, but it is doable with tree and gear options for anchors.