- Edit (TBD)
Description
Waiting in line for GRB? You brought all your quickdraws/alpine-draws right? This climb will warm ya up. First pitch is sport-bolted with quick-clip anchors. Pitches 2 and 3 feature larger spacing on the easier terrain. Linking pitches, if you must, will incur rope drag for days.Pitch 1, 5.10a: Follow the bolts up the beautiful chocolatey corner to an anchor on a nice ledge. 40', 5 bolts with quick-clips. Crux move around bolt 4.
Pitch 2, 5.9: Follow bolts mostly straight up the low-angle wall through two steep sections: A slight overhang, and a vertical headwall just below the anchors on another nice ledge. (The rock right below the mantle to the anchor ledge is soft, climb carefully.) 130', 13 bolts.
Pitch 3, 5.8: Follow the bolts climbing the nose-bridge right between the huge, hueco-eyesockets. Anchors are at the top of the formation. 80', 6 bolts.Descent: Use the walkoff for GRB. You can rappel the route with a 70m rope (70m is mandatory) if you have to, but just walk off.
Location
Located 100' left of GRB. Find the obvious smooth, darkly-varnished, slab/scoop with a left-angling diagonal corner. The route starts on the right end of this corner. Scramble up easy 4th class to a nice ledge to begin.
Protection
Fully bolted. Quick-clips on the first pitch anchors.
Routes in The Great Red Book Area
- 8Reservations Required5.10aSport