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Peak Mountain 3

Scarface

FA Ben Burnham
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This climb heads up the obvious zig-zagging crack on the Alcatraz Wall. This is the last major crag on the east side of the creek as you head down through Jailhouse Rock. To get there, continue down the creek past the point where it makes a 90 degree left turn below the Cell Blocks. Continue downhill past several bolted routes on the left (40 to Life, Mr. Meanor, & Mug Shot). At the bottom of the hill look up and left to see the Alcatraz Wall.

This is a nice lead if you're looking for a relaxed climb where you can practice super-easy gear placement.  The 5.7 rating is a bit too stiff.  The hardest move seems to be getting off the ground, after which the route follows the major crack up and right, cuts across the face where the going gets easy, and rejoins the crack up top.

Protection

Small and medium cams and stoppers. There are chains up top.

Bolts and top-anchors updated by CASA in 2017.