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Peak Mountain 3

Dust Bowl Dance

FA Mitch Yaggie, Marilla Yaggie, and Roy Suggett
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This line starts free with hands and then after 20 feet disintegrates into off-width clean aid. It may go free around 12d with all the fat gear needed. Wear eye protection and socks. No chalk required. Just the will and stamina to reach this impressive summit.

Location

The route is on the southeast corner of the south summit of Gun-Sight Butte

Protection

Passive = A full set of tricams

Active = BD .4 X 3, #s 1. X 2, 2. X 2, 3. X 2, 4. X 5, 5. X 2, (old) 5. X 1, and # 4 Big Bros X 2. Valley Giants would help.

Anchor = Three bolts with webbing and a quicklink

Rope = One 60m and a tag line

After reaching the summit work your way around the hump just opposite your exit where you will find sufficient rock, crack, friction, and gravity working on your mass to establish a trad anchor equalized with a cordelette for the second. Then, after the summit "party", work your way north to the edge of the south summit near the "notch" where the rap anchor is located in the best rock available. Rap here off the east side only a min. from your staging area.


Routes in Gun-Sight Butte


  1. 1
    Dust Bowl Dance
    5.7+
    Trad · Aid