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Peak Mountain 3

Crystal Palace

FA Mitch Lehman, July 2021
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Was out with Ray Rice and he fixed a fuzzy red static line Randy Baker had stashed on an old project. I rope soloed up and found myself wandering into the traversing quartz dike to the right of the project. Mellow chunky quartz climbing from the base of the cliff leads to a steep crux pulling on quartz edges. I would recommend a 70m rope unless someone is following. The FA was done from the ground, but the belayer should stand at the birch tree by the first bolt and can pre clip it for the leader. Will return next season to clean it up more, but all key holds are clear. Good warmup for the area 

Location

From the top of the new approach trail (flagged blue) head right up the steep hill for a couple hundred feet to the base of a quartz gully. This is on the slab face to the left of Polar Star. 

Protection

10 bolts (1 perma at crux for cleaning) + Lower Offs, maybe a long draw or two to reduce rope drag