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Description
Sheep of Faith is a sustained, 3 pitch adventure in one of Mt. Evans’ more secluded settings. Most notable is the Dinner Plate Roof on pitch 2 that is so steep it’ll have you fully horizontal while floating up huge jugs at 12,800 feet. 5.10 leaders may find themselves gripped as the gear can be tricky, and the Dinner Plate Roof can appear treacherous to navigate, but those with a little faith will find it to be an absolute blast.
The wall stays shaded until about 1pm. Do not climb this after a recent rain as most of the route seeps for about day afterward.
P1:
5.10+, 40m
Start on a ledge at the bottom right end of the buttress. Difficult climbing right off the ledge through a series of 3 bolts with finger-size cams to connect them. The moves are a bit awkward at bolt 3 but are made easier with a blind jug high above it. Hit a grass ledge, follow the slabby, left- leaning finger crack, and traverse left at a bolt. Belay at the base of the corner at a single bolt and horizontal crack.
P2:
5.10, 30m
Climb straight up the great layback corner. The starting gear can be tricky to place. We had luck with a 0.2 and a yellow offset nut. Clip a bolt at the roof of huge exfoliating dinner plates. Don’t let their chunky texture fool you, these things are solid. Jug bash away through the roof. A fully extended horizontal #4 can be placed amongst the plates before pulling the lip. Belay at a two bolt anchor on a mondo ledge.
P3:
5.10 PG, 25m
Follow the corner until the crack cuts left. Instead of following it, climb right to the base of the mega roof crack (
Daggermouth
), and escape via hand traversing out right. A punchy couple 5.10 moves get you over the lip of the roof (loose chockstone too big to come out of the crack) and to easier climbing above. Set a gear anchor.
Location
It climbs right up the center of the tallest section of the Casual Delight Buttress. This has a half mile approach. See the photo.
Protection
Singles #0.75-#4
Doubles #0.2-0.5
Alpine draws
Nuts
45m rope
Routes in Casual Delight Buttress
- 3Sheep of Faith5.10+Alpine · Trad