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Peak Mountain 3

The Mothership

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Description

Oh man! If you climb anything between 10c and 11d and you're at Area 51, The Mothership is a MUST DO! Written up as the best climb at the crag in the guidebook, this route is incredibly fun, and will provide plenty of challenge and reward for anyone in this range. The book does not lie, it's simply that good!

It's long, pumpy, full of great moves and has perfectly placed bolts (with the exception of first), there's nothing to dislike here!

The first bolt is 25 feet up, and will be an exposed reach for shorter climbers. If uncomfortable, bring a .5" X4 cam or a larger tricam to place in the horizontal crack just below.

Once clipped, the first crux is a highly entertaining move surmounting the bulge.

Follow the bolt line left on a thin slab as you work yourself into that awesome crease. The bolt line then travels up and right in the crease until you hit a small overhang.

Make the roof moves and pump your way to the finish on ample jugs

Location

Just to the left of Pod #1 (or, 50 feet right of the tiny bridge). The second route from the right on the blank-ish face next to the approach trail (the rightmost bolt line goes straight up just left of the arete). Look for a bulge in the rock about 25 feet up, and a right leaning seam on grey/brown rock above that.

Protection

Quickdraws. One optional .5" X4 cam or tricam to proctect the run before the first bolt. Bolted anchors.