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Peak Mountain 3

Madness of Folly

FA Mike Burdon & Joe Lovin, 2022
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

"So I turned my mind to understand, to investigate, and to search out wisdom, the scheme of things, and to understand the stupidity of wickedness and the madness of folly."

This route had apparently been toproped in the past but had never been seen a real ascent until now. Start up the nice flake into a couple moves of crack climbing. When the crack thins and peters out, so do the opportunities for gear, making for and engaging second half, but the spice is right, and the holds are sufficient. This route packs a quick punch through its powerful crux but also has some really fun moves before and after.

The route was first climbed as a headpoint ascent with moves and gear placements rehearsed on toprope.

Location

It climbs the obvious and beautiful arete covered in light green lichen.

Protection

Medium-sized nuts, cams, and an RP for the crux.

A static rope is necessary to build an anchor at the top.