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Peak Mountain 3

In the Silly

FA 1972 Art Reidel and Greg Lee
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Climb a thin ramp, which diagonals up and right to a large pebbly block and forms a roof overhanging the corner (the corner is where the climb In the Groove starts). Continue up over this block a few feet, then move to the right a few feet around a short corner. You'll see a chimney. Climb to the top of the chimney, passing a small tree about halfway up. At the top, exit right onto a small prow. Stand up, and climb approximately straight up to the rap station, moving left or right to wherever the holds and pro look good.

When I climbed it, the large rap station oak tree appeared to be hollow and dead. It was covered in old tat and had rap rings. It may be wise to find a different rap tree, or head south to the Ursula rappel.

Location

About 50 ft to the right of Ursula. Look for a free-standing triangular pinnacle about 10 feet tall, close to the cliff face. Just right of that you'll see a thin ramp diagonaling to the right, up the cliff.

Protection

There are good opportunities for pro almost everywhere. It gets a little more difficult to find good spots once you exit the chimney, but the climbing is fairly easy here. Standard Gunks rack.