Wild Horses

Wild Horses is a long (35 meters—KNOT THE END OF YOUR ROPE!) pitch on the southwest face of the Goose, just left of and sharing its first half with the trad climb

Sweet and Innocent

. It can be done in one long pitch with some long slings on your trad pro down low to reduce drag.

Climb

Sweet and Innocent through

its lower 5.10- crux, then step right, and follow the easier of the two crack lines to a ledge. Sidle left to clip a bolt, then head up past 8 more bolts (9 total) to anchors at the lip of the wall. The climbing is fairly continuous, with a punchy section along the lieback flake in the middle, then continuous crimping past the final four bolts. We stayed slightly right of the bolt line, though there look to also be holds along the left that would keep it at its original grade of 5.13a. Still, the bolts are plenty clippable from the right sequence—it seemed like the way to go.

This is a long, stellar, airy pitch on good stone that deserves to get done more, though the heads-up trad bottom will probably keep some suitors away.

For the bottom, I had gear to 2", including RPs (very useful); long slings are helpful in spots as well. This route has been recently rebolted and has SS 1/2" hardware and new anchors. Thanks for the rebolting effort, Mark Roth,

et al

!

This is between

Raging Bull

and

Sweet and Innocent

, sharing its bottom half with the latter climb. Begin at a small stance below a dark, left-facing corner that leads to a ledge.

Trad gear to 2" and quickdraws.