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Peak Mountain 3

The Haunted Mansion

FA Tyler Dziedzina, Ellie Moffat, Halloween 2020
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The Haunted Mansion climbs a really awesome, varied crack in a corner. It is mostly offwidth with a few fist jams and slowly widens into a squeeze chimney near the top, and when it does, the angle lessens to where you can leave the chimney and traverse a few feet left into a fingercrack. Alternatively, climb straight up the slab from the squeeze.

You can lieback this; however, the rock is oddly slippery, so it is much more insecure.

There is a large boulder up high in the squeeze. It moves, and I tried really hard to get it out. It doesn't really get in the way or anything, so just tread carefully.

Location

On the far climber's left hand side of the dome, there is a piece of the dome that split off and is slowly making its way into the river - head towards this. On the slab above the route, there are SS anchors you can rappel from and into the little alcove.

Protection

#3-6, with a finger sized piece or two; and doubles in the #4 to #5 range. Take a BD #7 and #8 if you aren't comfortable with easy squeeze chimney.