North Buttress - El Diente Peak

The North Buttress of El Diente Peak is a good alternative to the 3rd Class standard route during the summer and is the most solid option that can be accessed from Navajo Lake.

The climb begins at about 11,800 feet, after following the Class 2 trail to the upper plateau of Navajo Basin. There will be a prominent ridge on your right, and you will have to pick your own route to start this one, since it is unmarked, and there is no trail (at least from what I saw).

The route starts out with some mellow 3rd Class scrambling through boulderfields and gradually increases in difficulty the higher you go. The route finding is straightforward, just follow the prominent buttress to the summit of El Diente Peak.

The 4th Class crux comes near the top if you decide to cross some exposed rock slabs and climb through a chimney system, but simply continuing up the side of the mountain MIGHT keep it at Class 3+, depending on your definition. I think a rating of Class 4 is fair just because of the exposed and committing nature of this route. Chances are, you are going to run into 4th and even easy 5th Class anyway, so it’s best to be prepared for the latter.

The route starts at approximately 11,800’, just after entering the upper section of Navajo Basin. It will be on your right.

Don’t fall.