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Peak Mountain 3

Three Buttresses (first pitch)

FA Joe Walsh and party, late 1940s.
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A blocky start leads to a left slanting crack capped by a roof which is bypassed on the right up to a ledge with a tree. The ledge is part of the cactus ledge but is so covered in Poison Ivy and Brush that you can't get across it. There are 2 more pitches, though they are rarely done.

This is the standard route. It traverses right as soon as a ledge can be reached on that side, by learning across and mantling onto it (or stepping wide if you're stretchier than I am). This traverse happens several moves below the roof, which is referred to in some guidebooks as "variation 1."

Location

Just left around the buttress from Tales From the Crypt is a little crack system that slants a bit left.

Protection

Protects easily with some small cams and medium nuts. With up to #1 camalot and you can back up the tree too. Webbing and rings are usually present on the tree.