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Peak Mountain 3

Chimneychanga

FA Luis Cisneros, Angel Mangual
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Fun chimney climb that takes you to the top. All trad and very well protected. Perfect for someone learning to plug gear. The top of the chimney can be done in two ways: you can crawl through a hole, caving style, or you can climb on the outside. The second option make the climb considerably harder at about 5.9 for a short section. If you choose the hard way, make sure you place good gear before committing to the moves. This route is very long and a single 70mts rope WOULD NOT take you to the ground. There is an intermediate anchor for the sport route to the left that you can use. Also, if you choose to crawl the hole someone will need to climb the route to clean it, you can't do it while getting lowered. It is recommended to pitch-in (leader belays follower from the top) rather than the conventional sport crag lower-the-leader-and-top-rope style. 

Location

Obvious chimney that splits the wall. It actually forms a gap that separates the main wall (right) from the left side. 

Protection

Single rack up to 3"