Albino

Disclaimer:

I would be surprised if

nobody

has ever climbed this route before, but I cannot find it established online anywhere. I recommend a grade of 5.10c (if "Hand That Go Bump In The Night" is 5.10b, this is definitely more difficult).

Route:

Start on the corner of the arete. Follow the crack to the right, around the arete, onto the graffiti-buffed face and continue following the crack. When the crack ends, traverse left onto the moss-covered shelf and mantle to top out at the anchor. (See photo for details)

​​​​40 foot rock on the side of the road with ample parking; it's hard to miss

Scramble up the left side of the rock to set up a two-bolt top rope anchor. Use the bolt hangers. I personally used a 30ft long 7mm cordelette and rigged a "magic-x" with stopper knots to create a self-equalizing anchor. The belayer belayed from the road's edge. You should ALWAYS use YOUR OWN best judgment to determine the best anchor setup and rigging for the route you intend to climb.