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Peak Mountain 3

The Devil's Steps

FA Brad Fauteux
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The finest of Clough thus far. This Mega classic lies above the large cave near Mammoth Rock.

Sit start way down inside the lair. There is a large flake right of a boulder inside the cave. Match hands and right heel hook. Pull on and make a few cool moves rightwards on good holds and slopers. Reach a good sidepull on the giant shelf and grab the next shelf. Match and make some hard moves pulling around the bulge using a crystal sloper pinch and a left hand undercling.

Snatch the lip and top out rightwards.

youtube.com/watch?v=8HTzi1u…

Location

From "The the orange buoys on the gravel road, hike into the woods following them, continue past the boulders they are anchored to, uphill and rightwards, eventually entering a small clearing into the sunlight with a cluster of small boulders. Hike up and right to a big crack/ off-width and move right around a shelf, and down a set of four steps. You will have to drop your pads in order to use the steps. From the bottom of the staircase walk up and left past a crack/ dyno problem and reach the climb "The Devil's Steps".

From here climb up using a hemlock tree and a good rock feature out left. Match the tree and pull around and press up using the slab to the left for a hand.

Stand up and walk up and left and this boulder is shaped like a warped super-ball that sits on top of a small rock pedestal.

Protection

Two pads and one or two spotters.