Intensive Care

P1

• Climb up and a bit left to a bolt. Don't fall here! Climb past 3 more bolts to a long narrow ledge. (5.10d R).

P2

• From the right end of the ledge face climb past 4 bolts to some shallow cracks. Above the cracks either continue a ways (past another bolt) up to a clean cut ledge (big runout) or traverse right (safer) to a big pine tree. (5.11 R)

The first ascent party boldly continued up above the pine tree to the top of the slab. To my knowledge this has never been repeated. Everyone since has traversed right from the top of the shallow cracks.  Because this route isn't climbed that much, expect some flakiness.

This is a classic face climb, put up in bold style. The pioneers were dealing with hand drilling bolts from runout, lousy stances, broken drill bits,  and the unknown. Long falls were common on this route in the early days because of crumbly holds, and that sticky rubber shoes were not available. The route got its name because one of the climbers, Mark Ward, was sent to intensive care with a head injury after being injured in a fall.

Others contributing to the first ascent were Mark Ward, Randy Wright, and Dave Cannon & Ted Higgins.

The second ascent was done by Rick Wyatt and Jonathan Smoot 2 years later.

5-10' left of

Shock Trauma

at the left edge of the slab, before it gets steep.

Draws, a few thin wireds and offset nuts. Poor placements.