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Peak Mountain 3

Where Your Eyes Don't Go

FA Joe Denicola, Greg Barnes, Florence Scholl, Jonathan duSaint, Robin duSaint, 7/10.
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Fun climb up strange overlaps with a balancy crux (which is easier for those 6'2" or taller - I'm only 6' dang it!). The first pitch is a sport route, the second and third are trad.

Second pitch is 5.9 past a couple bolts, then trad gear, head up flake to ledge, then up and left along horizontal cracks and past a black bulge to a bolted anchor at 105' (a long 60 might just make it on rappel - so use 70 or two ropes...). Third pitch is a 5.8 boulder problem off the belay ledge (don't fall), then easier climbing for a long time (about 180' pitch).

Getting to the first bolt ranges from 5.8 to 5.11 depending on which way you go - perfect flat sandy landing to boulder what you want.

Location

Climbs the large black streak right of Lost Cause (the largest black streak on the wall). The narrow black streak to the right is Working For Peanuts - you will see the old bolted anchor from partway up pitch 2.

Protection

9 bolts first pitch, bolted anchor. Second has 2 bolts, pro to 3" (double thin cams, bring small/med nuts), bolted anchor. Third trad, trad anchor, don't need much. Easy walk off to the right.