- Edit (TBD)
Description
Too! is a very strange route, and quite out of place at Clear Creek. It contains 3 good pitches (out of 4) and some impressive exposure, but the everpresent lichen and loose rock subtract from this otherwise excellent climb.
P1. A multitude of first pitches are possible, but the best (and most in keeping with the difficulty of the rest of the climb) is the farthest right bolted pitch on the base of the formation. A few difficult slab moves at mid height provide the crux here, and a comfortable belay is reached after ~120 feet. 5.10d, 6 bolts.
P2. The second pitch is basically slabby grunge - 5.4X. Carefully work your way up to the obvious headwall, where you'll find a 2 bolt anchor after about 130 feet. 5.4, 1 bolt.
P3. The third pitch tackles this headwall and is arguably the best on the route, though only about 80 feet long. 5.11c, 10 bolts.
P4. The final pitch begins with a hairy traverse on fragile rock past a pin to a line of bolts heading up and right out a steep block. The first 50 feet are 5.10, and the final moves of 5.12 (which are very out of place for the route) can be easily aided. 5.12a, 10 bolts.
Descend by making 3 double-rope rappels, but exercise EXTREME CAUTION when pulling ropes, as there is loose rock in spades. Helmets highly recommended.
Protection
15 quickdraws and 2 ropes are recommended, though creative rappelling might allow for a single rope descent. Fully bolted.
Routes in Little Eiger
- 17Too!5.12bSport