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Peak Mountain 3

South Chimney

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Description

One of the nicer routes in this grade. No chimneying required.

Stem up the cleft at the base, arriving at a ledge with a monster pine tree on the right. Work you way up the dihedral formed between the Tower and the cliff. The crux comes in the middle, about where you can look through the hole in the tower to the Lake.

At the top you have several options: scramble up on the boulder to the left (best place to set a TR), walk back away from the cliff (easiest), or bust a move up the crack in the headwall to your right and finish on top of the tower (one 5.6-5.7 move).

Location

On the left (south) side of the Reclining Tower.

Protection

Nuts & hexes are plenty. You could use one piece to 4".