Faith, Hope, and Charity

Faith, Hope, and Charity was lead-pointed over three days in late May and early June 2009 and then led all gear placed on lead. This is possibly a three star route, but some suspect holds in the first half detract from the overall movement and stellar upper crux. A combination of creative body work, mental stamina, semi-technical foot work, and a dash of power add up to good climbing.

Climb an easy slab into the right-facing dihedral. Place a few good technical cams, and grapple with the tenuous and awkward lower crux. Mid-crux some dubious gear can be placed. Botching the exit sequence into the rest guarantees carnage. You will not die, but it will not be pretty (.11c R).

From a balance rest, sew up the crack with medium stoppers. Fire to the arête and up onto the crux face. Finish on the sparsely protected face/arête just left of the last third of

Star Wars

second pitch. JIT (Just-In-Time) gear appears on the face if you search for it.

This was originally TR'ed by Mark Tarrant.

Lower Peanuts

between

Forbidden Planet

and pitch two of

Star Wars

. Start 50' left and 50' below the second pitch of

Star Wars

from a comfortable ledge below the obvious right facing dihedral. The dihedral peters out onto the arête and then face. Finish on the face/arête just to the left of the last third of

Star Wars

second pitch. Solid tree for anchor. Walk off uphill a bit to the

Lower Peanuts/Upper Peanuts

saddle.

SR with an emphasis on technical cams and medium wires.