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Peak Mountain 3

Heavenly Journey

FA Billy Westbay
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The quintessential runout face climb on Lumpy Ridge. Begin in the obvious crack system approx. 20' left of the big left facing dihedral on the right side of the Pear, look for the 2 bolt and chain anchor on the top of the 1st pitch [new 3/8 in, 2003]. Pitch #1: Climb the flared crack to its end step right to a hanging flake, then work up and left to the anchor. Pitch #2: Head straight up from the belay, hard moves at first, then sustained 5.8/5.9 for approx. 120' (no pro) to a belay just above a bulge at a crack system. Leaders in the past have clipped bolts on weight loss clinic to the [left], but be advised these are old. Apparently, this pitch also had a fixed pin that was snapped in a large leader fall. Traverse off to the right, easy, and descend.

Protection

Rack to a #2 Camalot, with RPs for 1st pitch.