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Peak Mountain 3

Midnight In A Perfect World

FA Jeremiah Johnson
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is a very hard dynamic slab problem. Start by stemming in the scoop to reach left hand up to a small thumb-undercling. Match the thumb-undercling and reach out left to a terrible ripple of a crimp. Get your right foot very high on an insecure, glassy edge and generate enough momentum to launch you high and right to a good crimp on the edge of the scoop. You'll probably lose all other points of contact with the wall when you hit the crimp. Control it, match, then follow good flakes up and over the top. The finish is a little high but very easy compared to the rest. A very good problem for those that can appreciate a hard slab climb.

Location

Follow the main trail up; when the main trail turns right, stay on it. 100 - 200 yards from the turn, start looking into the woods on the left for a tall, just-under-vertical scoop-like wall just up and off the trail behind some pines (it's a little hard to see). That's the one.

Protection

A couple pads and a spot. The landing seems flat, but it's easy to roll your ankle here anyway.