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Peak Mountain 3

Slabbin Like Sunday Morning

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Description

This is the longest continuous rock climbing route in Georgia. It is 5 full pitches with 900 ft of total rope length climbing and 500 ft of vertical gainWhat you say? How is this possible? I've never heard of this thing. Where is it?The route follows a relatively low angled moss and debris covered slab from near the bottom of the gulley between Mount Yonah and Pine Mountain all the way to the top of the ridge line coming down off of Mount Yonah. The bottom three pitches have climbing generally in the 5.4 range with an obvious crux at about 5.5. The top two pitches are mostly closer to 5.easy with a 5.4 move required to get over a small roof at the start of P5. Climbing the whole thing in approach shoes is the way to go, although you might want a pair of rock shoes for the P2 crux moves. The protection is generally good and more than adequate for the terrain.That sounds lame. Why would I climb this? - Because it's the longest climbing route in GA and you can spray about having done it on social mediaIs this climb an adventure? - Heck yea. Where else in GA can you climb a trad route this long and off the beaten pathHow much of this is just walking up a slab? - Full disclosure there are parts where that is the case. P1 - P3 are mostly climbing. P4 - P5 are more slab walking. Stop at the top of P3 if you want, but then you lose all the epic glory of the full ascent.P1 - Start at the lowest continuous point on the left side of the slab. Follow the weakest line up and then start following the path of least moss trending up and right. The pitch ends on the right side of the slab below a short vertical section. Gear belay (200 ft)P2 - Head up the weirdly moss free clean streak to a detached looking block. Make a couple of 5.5 moves to get over the vertical bit and continue straight up to the base of another short vertical section. Gear belay (200 ft)P3 - Trend right off the belay and surmount the vertical part via some knobby looking holds on the right. Wind your way up the slab until it completely peters out. Tree belay (200 ft)P4 - Traverse straight left off the belay and enter the woods on the left edge of the slab. Go up and left for about 20 ft to get onto the adjacent slab that is on the left. Follow the rightish side of this slab all the way up to a large horizontal crack with a small roof. Set your belay several feet to the right of the vertical crack feature in the middle. When starting this pitch it might be beneficial to move the belay from the P3 tree belay over to the side of the adjacent slab. Gear belay (230 ft)P5 - Find the jugs to keep the move 5.4 and go over the small roof. Wind you way through the path of least moss to the tippy top of the slab. Tree belay (100 ft)Wear a helmet. There is a lot of loose rock just sitting around on the slab waiting to be dislodged on the poor climber below you.Descent: There are a few options. Rap the right side of the route using trees along the side of the slab. Work your way back to the P3 tree belay and then it's pretty straight forward from there. If you're using a 60m rope make sure you tie knots in the ends.Carry all your stuff with you and bushwhack the ridge all the way to the top of Mount Yonah and then walk down the main trailRap the left side of the route and wind up on top of the Pin Wall proper

Location

Approach like you're going to the Pin Wall. When you see the Pin Wall and the trail starts to move up hill, instead continue to contour around and trend downhill. The natural features should funnel you to the base of the climb as long as you don't go too low

Protection

Standard rack. Doubles in 0.5 - 2 are handy. Can be done with a 60m rope with a little simul and rappel rope stretch. A 70m is nicer overall for the rappel