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Peak Mountain 3

Attica

FA Jim Sweeney, Royal Robbins, 1979
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Climb up the right-facing dihedral until you reach an overhang, where you climb left and up through to a ramp. Follow the ramp up to the top. It is balancy and very fun!

Alternatively, per

Chris Dickson

: start in a finger crack on the left wall of the chimney (near its entrance). Layback up this crack (or you can stem it out using the other wall of the chimney) until you can pull around left onto the slab. There is good gear throughout this start. Once on the slab, cruise up the crack with some great fingerlocks and hand jams. Follow the crack until you can reach a large block sitting on a ledge (it's solid), then move around the block and to the right, pulling on jugs and sidepulls until you reach the anchor.

Location

This is a large, right-facing corner 80' downhill from

Dog Leg

.

Protection

I toproped it - leader carried standard rack.

Per

Chris Dickson

: this route takes mostly small gear, and nuts may be helpful. A 2-bolt anchor with chains below the lip makes for easy cragging.