We Love You Johnny

Some great face climbing but on sometimes less than perfect rock (flakey) and some spicy sections imo. All anchors bolted

P1 - 11c (did something break?) - Head up the bolted line in the space between the "inverted" flake. Cool knob climbing with a move I couldn't pull getting past the 3rd bolt. Unlike the rest of the route, you can pull through this crux. At the 4th bolt, go left into the chimney. Wild and hard. There's another bolt in the chimney and then bust out of the flake/roof at the apex, really wild. Good and engaging climbing to the anchor. 11 bolts

P2 - 11b - This one actually felt true to the grade. Head up then straight right friction (crux) climbing past two bolts. Then head up into a shallow corner that is harder than it looks. Easy climbing up and left to the anchor. 8 bolts

P3 - 11a (yeah right) - 2 bolts gets you to a flake/thin crack and then up to an arete. Clip a bolt above the roof and then move left into a chimney. Up this for 15ft. til you can reach back right around the arete and clip another bolt. Hard moves lead around then up the arete. Getting to the next bolt is hard/far and the fall is kinda weird. Crazy and sustained arete moves to the anchor. I think the chimney is part of "capital punishment" and i'm sure you can take it to the top if you want

P4 - Easy to the top

For the most fun, find the top of the route which is in a nice flat spot (10 min. walk) and rap in. I'm pretty sure a single 70m can make it. You'll probably want to take your shoes in case you have to bail and walk out (a real possibility for most I would think).

Otherwise, follow the approach directions to the base of the cliff. The first pitch is in the very peculiar flake thing.

All bolted but take a thin fingers size piece for P3 if you want (recommended)