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Peak Mountain 3

Schleppin' for Hollywood

FA E.Wolfe/J.Chinchen
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Technical edging up a flat face and blunt arete. The anchors were moved up to a more logical ending point by Jason Chinchen in 2019 as suggested by Alan Watts, adding more climbing, an extra bolt and some difficulty.Leave the ground by stepping onto the face from the hillside. Clip a couple of bolts on easier terrain and then head left and up on small nubbins and crimps. After a good rest midway in a couple of pods, use the blunt arete and some decent side pulls to negotiate the  next few bolts. The route gets progressively harder and the pump builds until you are faced with a hard clip at the last bolt (the old anchor location) followed by the most difficult sequence yet on positive crimps. End with a stab to huge jugs and a few more easy moves on dirty side-pull jugs. New chain anchors await at the top of the wall. This route was spotted from the mouth cave. and bolted and named by Erik Wolfe and Jason Chinchen while on the job, hauling camera gear for a very early cell phone commercial in 1996 that had a stunt man falling out of the mouth cave while a movie crew filmed from the cave. 

Location

The shaded left side of Diamonds and Rust Buttress, look for a face with bolts.

Protection

8 bolts, chain anchors.


Routes in (rr) Diamonds and Rust Buttress