Safe Sex

Safe Sex is the neglected sidekick to Dreamer, similar to how Orbit once was, relative to Outer Space. But as Orbit gained acclaim for its own merits, Safe Sex is equally deserving. SS takes a direct line, utilizing the huge corner in middle pitches 4 and 5. It is slightly easier than Dreamer and a bit less runout.

Keep this route on your radar when you are heading to Dreamer on a nice weekend, as it is always good to have a backup plan! Don’t go without the excellent Perkins topo (

mattsea.com/Darr/pdf/dreame…

) which shows both routes.

Safe Sex starts at the original Dreamer start, which maximizes elevation by scrambling around on the right to the base of the shallow central corner.

P1. Launch up open slab slightly left of the corner. 2 bolts and gear. 5.7 PG

P2. Continue straight up, merging with Dreamer and sharing its 3rd belay in the shallow corner. 5 bolts. 5.8

P3. Follow P4 of Dreamer up the shallow corner and angle left. After the third bolt, head straight up where Dreamer angles left. 5.7 PG

P4. Step left around a cedar bush and climb the nice L-facing layback (5.7, cams), then right and up a steep rib (or left above overhang via 5.9 variation). If bolt is missing hanger, sling with a wired nut. 5.8

P5. The heart of the route – the ‘dirty-but-good’ corner! The corner is hardly ‘dirty’, but has bits of vegetation which is never troublesome. As the overhang looms, venture onto the steep right wall, and crimp up to the rounded rib. A looong pitch – 6 bolts and gear. 5.8+

P6. Twenty feet of steep knobs, then easier climbing wanders left to the belay. 5.8

P7. Continue left to connect with Dreamer. You can diagonal up and left across runout mid-5th ground and a bolted 5.8 bit to belay #8 (5.8 PG). Or, go directly left (low 5th) to belay #7 of the well-bolted Dreamer Direct. Better yet, ignore these words and just consult the topo

From there, rappel or continue up Dreamer to the ridge, which is highly recommended if daylight allows. Remember to factor in all the diagonal rappels, down-climbing, creek crossing and road walking ahead!

Descent requires 60m double-rope rappels.

Safe Sex is the preferred rappel route

as it avoids the notorious rope-eating flakes around pitch 2 of Dreamer. All stations are bolted.

Green Giant Buttress, same start as Dreamer. See Perkins topo and abundant approach info on GGB and Dreamer pages

Single rack to 3.5" and draws, double 60s, headlamp