- Edit (TBD)
Description
After an easy jaunt up to the ledge, clip the first bolt and move up and right on positive if fleeting holds. Plug some gear at your waist, and move into the fractured system that encompasses the face. A 0.3 BD can be placed in a small, vertical pod from a good stance easing the mind a bit when contemplating the accompanying gear. Using rails, crimps, and sidepulls, move yourself into position under the vertical seam where you will place your final pro. This is the mental crux of the climb as it is protected with the little stuff (C3s, ballnuts, etc...). Pull over the bulge and slightly left, and you're there. This is a fun route with small gear and fun movement.
Location
This is the first route encountered, and it shares anchors with
Cool Corner
. A spruce tree just set back from the base makes for a great shady belay.
Protection
Tight fingers and smaller (several ballnuts and C3s with a BD 0.3 as the largest piece made for the original rack), 1 bolt, and a 2 bolt anchor.
Routes in Bionut Wall
- 14Gotta Have Balls, Gotta Have Nuts5.10+Alpine · Trad