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Peak Mountain 3

Honest Abe

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Description

Right of the climbs through the high roof- is this left-facing corner, which is more awkward than classic, but still pretty fun.

This climb has a weird part off the ground getting onto a big block. This is followed by an awkward move squirming into a flare, or liebacking to get in there. I thought this part was the crux of the climb, and it protects pretty well with a finger size cam before you start the crux sequence. At the top, pull on hand jams through a steep finish. It's fun and easier than it looks like it will be.

Jemez Rock lists this as 5.11a; Josh said 10b, so I'll try to be honest and leave the rating in between.

Protection

Nuts and cams up to a 2". 2-bolt anchor, with chains (thanks to Walt, probably).