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Peak Mountain 3

South Face

FA Kipp Metzger and Eileen Keller 1987
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Between Moby Dick and Dem Bones:

P1: Start by the Madrone tree just up from the guard rock near the bottom of the Moby Dick gully. Follow the quasi-buttress, chicken-headed path to a good ledge and belay here on gear.

P2: Follow the chicken head highway till it runs out (breathe...) then run it out to a semi-hanging stance on very large chicken heads.

P3: Continue upward along the path of least resistance to another good ledge.

P4: Continue up the direct route on giant c-h's till they run out. Prepare for an extremely long run out heading for the dike composed of large knife-like plates then laterally to the left to the belay station (two bolts) on the last pitch of Moby Dick.

P5: Finish on the last pitch of Moby Dick

Protection

Take slings for chicken head hiking and small to medium stoppers, tri-cams, and Aliens.