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Peak Mountain 3

Central Chimney Direct

FA unknown
CREATED May 2023
UPDATED May 2023

Description

This route sucks, don't do it. The Chimney is extremely obvious when you reach the base of the Dome. It starts with a small bulge/overhang and continues up the widening off-width to chimney for about 230 ft. to a large ledge. There is a large bird's nest in the crack which is difficult not to disturb as you thrutch by, pro is tricky unless you have Big Bros and the grade seems a sandbag for all except the off-width master. I didn't enjoy this route at all and only add it here so that others may be able to avoid suffering as I did. When I did this route we ended up having to do some rather sketchy simul-climbing, it is difficult to arrange a belay in the Chimney and it doesn't let up for over 200 feet, I think I got in two pieces of gear and slung a chockstone. Climb Sugar Magnolia.

Protection

BIG STUFF, ie. #4 or #5 Camalot, Big Bros etc.


1000 km
500 mi