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Peak Mountain 3

Fancy Feat

FA P-1 NB; P-2 NB & DM
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This was the first free line through the amazing headwall (BB's Native Dance was the first line), and the one that opened the gate to several excellent routes above.

While the whole route is fun, pitch one is the lesser quality intro pitch, with pitch two being the money pitch. Unfortunately it's somewhat overshadowed by the crack of "Cut In The Rug" just to the left.

P-1 (intro pitch)

Climb to a ledge and wander up a brief section of blocky (hollow) terrain to a line of bolts. Climb past 3 bolts to an optional #0 TCU (hidden a couple feet above bolt). Continue up past a #1 TCU slot to the 4th bolt. Make bouldery eyebrow moves to gain a horizontal rail (small cam here for traverse)and then move right to the belay.

P-2 (money pitch)

Climb up and right to the stance where "Cut In The Rug" diverges left. From here, move up and right following weird grooves/cracks and jugs to a line of bolts that lead through the eyebrow-laced face and to a groove. Climb groove past a funky shallow finger size cam to easier terrain and the anchor up and left.

Location

See picture topo. First pitch gains several optional second pitch variations, including the excellent crack and eyebrow-laced face of Cut In Th Rug.

Protection

Standard rack up to #3 camelot