Zugzwang

This is a 6-7 pitch slab/crack on the west face of the pawn and as good as it gets on alpine granite. Sandwiched in the middle of the slab pitches is one unique and very difficult crack pitch. Very little beta out there on this route, but the crux pitch is referred to as insecure 5.12. I would personally refer to it as "hard alpine 5.12" or even "soul-crushing 5.12," but that's just me.

P1:

Follow the first pitch of En Passant or The Marshall Route. EP follows the blocky crack that ascends just left of the big black water streaks on the slab. Marshall goes up the gritty gully 100 feet to the right. When you gain the ledge traverse right to a bolted anchor from EP or traverse left to the same anchor from Marshall. 5.7ish

P2:  Climb directly up onto the chicken heads. There is a bolt hiding between two of them (we missed it but its there) and then clip a second bolt 20 feet later. Get a small piece in a crack and continue right around a roof on easy terrain until just left of the big triangular cave/roof where you'll find another anchor. 5.8

P3:

Climb directly up over the steep bit of slab in a flared crack that doesn't really take pro. Clip a bolt just above the crack and do a hard transition move out of the crack and slab up toward the dihedral pitch. 5.10+

P4:

The cruxy nasty. A truly great pitch. Demanding. There's a bolt in the middle but I'm not convinced it helps that much. Good luck. 5.12b/c

P5:

Payment in flesh for the good rock quality below. This is rotten and gross. Loose. Weed-ridden. Climb directly up from the anchor into the roof and then left around the 3-4 inch slot. Lye the dirty thing back with feet on the slab placing increasingly smaller gear util you reach your decision point. Continuing along the slab is possible as an alternate x-rated pitch. Not recommended. Zugzwang heads to the right along a 1-inch horizontal crack. This crack is filled with brittle dry weeds which defies attempts to place gear, but its basically a jug rail. Once you're in the trough above you'll find a bolt on your left and find a crack system where the pitch can end. Build your belay.  5.10+

P6:

Let's be honest this is what you came for. Huge chicken heads, crazy mantles, and full rope-stretcher to the summit. Can be broken into 2 pitches. 5.9

Descent:

5 double rope-raps back to the base of the route. Adventure Rappelling for sure. Rappel anchors are now redundant, except for the 4th rap, in which its best to simul-rap through the arch, utilising the natural rock-anchor.

The slab left of the pawn proper. Start up the marshall route or En Passant.

Double rack cams, 0 to 3" and a single 4. Plenty of alpine draws and runners for slinging chicken heads on the last pitch.