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Peak Mountain 3

Rubicon

FA Woody Holliman
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

No obvious crux, but the climbing is sustained and enjoyable.

Location

Begin at the bottom right side of the South Face (at the base of The Spice is Right) and follow a diagonal path to the top left corner of the wall using an assortment of bolts, railroad spikes (tied off with slings), and small cams or nuts for protection.

Protection

2 or 3 bolts, several railroad spikes, light rack. Rim anchors w/chains. Beware: There's a significant gap between bolts at the start (ground fall potential). Look for a tiny gear placement out left. Also consider clipping one of the bolts on Itchy Bitch with an extra-long sling.

This route can be top-roped, but you'll need to set your anchors at the middle of the wall to minimize the swing factor. Also make sure you're not going to collide with an adjacent climber.