- Edit (TBD)
Description
Doable as a sport route, but the original ascent placed a pc. or two leading up the initial face. It's possible, during dry spells, to skip the start by climbing up the ugly notch to the block. Climb up and right to the right side of a block lying on a sloping ledge at the upper end of the notch. Use the block to clip the first bolt, but step down to enjoy the initial move getting onto the upper face. (SARS Left uses the block, then moves left to avoid the crux, taming the route by two grades). Once on the upper face, sketchy moves along a right-rising seam allow another bolt clip (be careful doing this one). Now make holdless moves right to gain another seam. Move up and right along it to top out.
Location
Begin right of H1N1, on knobby edge just left of a (usually wet) notch.
Protection
Tricams help at the start, after that it's all bolts.