- Edit (TBD)
Description
p1: climb a right facing crack to an intersection with a small roof. Look for this rather improbable step up to gain the easier climbing above the bulge. Go straight up, the crux, clipping a fixed pin. Traverse right to a stance near a bush.
p2: short pitch to establish an anchor near a crack system in the middle of the face.
p3: a long pitch up cracks, climb discontinuous cracks until one can climb a long right to left crack system.
p4: another short pitch near the top of the climb. Follow weaknesses on left to the shoulder of Aces' Face, aiming for a notch above or go out right for cleaner face climbing, one old bolt (perhaps a couple of 5.9 moves) to the belay.
Location
The route starts right center of the clean face. Find a small right facing dihedral which goes to a longer roof. Rap the route (2 ropes)--2 raps.
Protection
Standard Organ trad rack. Bring a bolt kit and webbing to buck up the old rap route.