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Peak Mountain 3

Jokers Wild

FA Edmund Ward et. al.
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

p1: climb a right facing crack to an intersection with a small roof. Look for this rather improbable step up to gain the easier climbing above the bulge. Go straight up, the crux, clipping a fixed pin. Traverse right to a stance near a bush.

p2: short pitch to establish an anchor near a crack system in the middle of the face.

p3: a long pitch up cracks, climb discontinuous cracks until one can climb a long right to left crack system.

p4: another short pitch near the top of the climb. Follow weaknesses on left to the shoulder of Aces' Face, aiming for a notch above or go out right for cleaner face climbing, one old bolt (perhaps a couple of 5.9 moves) to the belay.

Location

The route starts right center of the clean face. Find a small right facing dihedral which goes to a longer roof. Rap the route (2 ropes)--2 raps.

Protection

Standard Organ trad rack. Bring a bolt kit and webbing to buck up the old rap route.


Routes in Ace's Face


  1. 1
    Jokers Wild
    5.8+
    Trad