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Peak Mountain 3

Northwest Ridge Route (old woman)

FA Gary Kirk and Walt Coady, 1959.
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

From the upper flat between Old Man and Old Woman scramble up a steep scramble trail around the base of Old Woman's west face. When you come to a narrow cleft on the northwest corner of Old Woman sling a tree to establish your fist belay. Pitch-1: From outside the cleft scramble onto the leg of the northwest ridge leading to the summit of Old Woman. The first 5 feet off the ground can be a little tricky. Once off the ground follow the ridge about 40 feet where you'll find a crack to place a cam. Continue up the ridge placing gear as needed until you come to the bottom of a narrow gully up the left side of the ridge. Establish a belay. Pitch-2: Climb the gully up the left side of the ridge topping out on a ledge at the summit where you will find a bolted belay without chains. Rappel to the start of the climb (two ropes). PG = exposure and leads generally may be unsuited to someone transitioning from gym to outdoor climbing at the same rating.

Location

From the upper flat between Old Man and Old Woman scramble up a steep scramble trail around the base of Old Woman's west face. When you come to a narrow cleft on the northwest corner of Old Woman sling a tree to establish your fist belay. Refer to Rock Climbing Western Oregon, Vol. 2: Umpqua 2007 map 4 page 226 and topo E page 230.

Protection

gear to 3 inches, belay bolts are Fixe SS 3/8 double expansion, no chains.


Routes in Old Man Spire