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Peak Mountain 3

Here, Kitty Kitty

FA Tyler Dziedzina
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Description

Here, Kitty Kitty is a classic country song by Joe Exotic detailing the murder of Carole Baskin's husband. In the song, Joe describes how she fed her husband to the tigers....

Here, Kitty Kitty is also a classic, splitter offwidth roof. To get to the crack itself, scramble into the cave to the left of the climb, and from a boulder, step across onto a small ledge, and grab the edge of the crack.... Figuring out how to get into the crack is part of the fun. The difficulties aren't over once you turn the roof, as you still have a steep, flaring, and overhanging crack to negotiate. After that, it's a glorious offwidth grovel to the top.

The first gear placement in the roof is blind, and you are about 20 feet off the ground at that point, so have your spotter double check your first piece from the ground before you invert into the crack. Alternatively, if you are too short or a scaredy-cat, you can lower off the anchors at the top and place your first piece (short people may have to jump to get the lip grab). This doesn't make the route any less difficult.

I didn't think about the grade too much on this one, it certainly isn't the hardest offwidth roof out there (using Crumbling Reality as a benchmark for the upper end of S. Platte offwidths, this one feels easier), but this one you are pretty much climbing above a series of waterfalls, so that's pretty unique and cool.

This gets afternoon shade in the summer.

Location

It is left of "

Carole Baskin Killed Her Husband

" under a huge roof.

Protection

BD #3-#7.... You can place a hand-size piece behind the flake inside the roof. It seemed 50% solid to me but I will try to remove it next time I'm up there. There are bolted anchors up top.

Be mindful of your rope, as you can get a nasty core shot on this route if you arent careful