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Peak Mountain 3

Sword In The Stone

FA Jens Amudsen
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Description

I love this route. It provides stacks of beautiful hand and foot movements, good rock, and elegant positioning. The crux comes low, and the last 15 meters pack consistent and engaging 5.9 climbing. Enjoy!

Historical issues:

It should be noted that this part of the Renaissance Crag shows signs of past climbing attention. I found an extremely sketchy 1/4" thick bolt that was drilled only 1/4" in to the sandstone patina. It took about 2 or 3 turns with my fingers to remove it. I have no idea when or by whom this bolt was placed. I've asked around (Dave Griffith and Steve Edwards, for example), and no one seems to know. What's more, I've no idea what line of travel that ill-fated bolt professed to protect. In any case, I'm not the only one who thought this area worth climbing.

Also, to the left of the second bolt of this route, you can see a Metolius hanger protecting a bottomed-out seam. Again, someone has been here before me. I can only guess that this bolt protects the start of a 5.8ish crack/dihedral to the left of Sword and the Stone.

Location

On the left side of the Renaissance Man Crag area. Starts at the lower left end of the big slab.

Protection

8 bolts to a two-bolt anchor.