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Peak Mountain 3

North Arete

FA Galen Rowel, Chris Jones, Greg Henzie 1970
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Fantastic route! 1st 2 pitches are 5.6/5.7 knife edge ridge traversing, then 2 more pitches on the headwall that involve good cracks, chimneys and steep bulges. There are a few hard crux moves that felt very full value for 5.8. The cruxes are steep, roof-like bulge moves (think 1970  5.8,5.9) and hard chimneys in the squeeze size and bigger.

Location

Start from near Horn Col. (11,280), Scramble south up class 2,3 to a big boulder on the ridge filled with white and pink quartz. Rope up here and start the 2 pitches of knife edge ridge traverse.

Protection

No bolts, build your own anchors. Standard alpine rack, few doubles in the hand and small range. Lots of alpine draws. 60m rope.


Routes in Horn Peak


  1. 1
    North Arete
    5.8
    Alpine · Trad